The King and I

About the same time the US was getting a handsome new leader, our polar opposite - a the tiny, undeveloped, devout Himalayan Kingdom - was getting one too. I'm a bit late posting on this. Those of you who keep up with the international news have already noted that Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuk, son of Jigme Singye Wangchuk, the Fourth King of Bhutan, who ruled for 34 years and oversaw the transition to democracy, beginning in 2007, became the Fifth Druk Gyalpo, of King of Bhutan, last week, ascending to the throne on Dec. 6, 2008. Amazing videos here.

Although the Fourth King handed the throne over to his son more than a year ago, custom dictated conducting the coronation on an astrologically auspicious day. Last year, 2007, was not an auspicious year, so the ceremony had to wait. I believe that there were also practical considerations: the first half of 2008 was occupied with parliamentary elections, and the establishment of the new democratic government. A summer coronation likely would've been marred by monsoon rains - and the infrastructure being built to mark the transition, along with 100 years of the Wangchuk dynasty, was not yet complete.

Throughout the spring and summer, there was lots of speculation that the coronation would happen in late March or April, or July, but it seems likely that the considerations mentioned above caused the coronation to be pushed back to autumn, when the weather is more likely to be salubrious. Autumn, however, presents it's own practical considerations, as it is the season of many annual festivals (tshechus), including a large tshechus in the capital, Thimphu, that draws many visitors. The coronation could not conflict with the tshechus, nor could it be scheduled near the tshechus, as the royals specifically did NOT want large numbers of foreigners in attendance. (Rumor has it that the royal family purchased all the airline tickets for the first two weeks of November to ensure the exclusivity of the event. Tourist visas were not issued during this time, either.)

I would have loved to have been there for the historic event - though I am delighted to be at home for our own historic governmental transitions. Anyway, I was fortunate to meet H.M. King Khesar back when he was the Crown Prince, presiding over the first International Conference on Gross National Happiness, where he gave a stirring and eloquent speech. (The Fourth Conference will be held in a few weeks - a rare opportunity to BeInBhutan for less than $250/ day.)

(That's Prime Minister Lyonchen Jigmi Thinley, in the background, who was Foreign Minister, and Chair of the Centre for Bhutan Studies, at the time.)